Coconut and Stem Ginger Biscuits

Yorkshire being the cake capital of the world, I have struggled to find a truly Yorkshire-bred biscuit but there are some excellent contenders at Botham’s Bakery in Whitby. The ‘Betty’s of the Yorkshire Coast’ and start-up of Victorian entrepreneur Elizabeth Botham, the bakery is famous for its lemon buns, but they do nice biscuits too. On my last visit North it was their Coconut and Stem Ginger biscuits that caught my eye with their unusual ingredient base of coconut, ginger and lime, inspired by Captain Cook’s voyages of discovery.

Along with St Hild and Count Dracula (!), Cook was one of Whitby’s most celebrated residents and one part of his biography that is less commonly remembered was his success in keeping his crews for long voyages healthy. Cook was one of the earliest winners of the Royal Society’s Copley Medal due to his work in combating scurvy by adding supplements of cress, fermented cabbage and orange extract to his sailors’ diets. While I’m not sure how healthy this biscuit he inspired is, it certainly tastes fantastic. My favourite of 2025 so far and it’s suitable for vegans too as it uses plant oil rather than butter.

The ginger and the coconut flavours work surprisingly well together and like any decent sea-faring biscuit, they tasted even better after being exposed to the elements for a week. And if I had been paying more attention to the church calendar, I might have opened the biscuits for the feast of St Brendan of Clonfert earlier in the summer, who is also known as Brendan the Voyager or Brendan the Navigator. The 9th-century classic Navigatio sancti Brendani abbatis (or Voyage of St Brendan the Abbot) is worth a read if you’re at all interested in the lives of the early Celtic Saints and their peregrinations. As Michael Mitton writes in his tribute to Celtic Christianity, Restoring the Woven Cord, the work itself is a “highly embellished… [travelogue but] behind the parables and hyperbole, you discover a group of wonderfully open travellers who come upon small communities of monks, encountered the wonders of icebergs and great whales, and travelled vast distances in their fragile coracle.“.

St Brendan and his companions (artist unknown)

Brendan and his companions had a clear objective in their wanderings. Their imagination had been stirred by stories of a mysterious blessed isle in the Atlantic and their journey in search of it opens up Dantesque portals to heavenly and hellish experiences on the ocean as well as opportunities for fellowship with other monastic communities along the way. The idea that an Earthly Paradise, or the literal Garden of Eden, existed somewhere and you could travel to it was a familiar one to medieval readers who may have literally believed that this was so. Dante’s pilgrim gets to visit it on his journey through Purgatory and in some later medieval romances, Paradise is to be found in India and Alexander the Great is allowed a glimpse of it and given a gift – a pearl or apple – to take away.

The location of Eden according to the 13th century English ‘Map Psalter’: BL Add. MS 28681 f. 9r

After seven years, Brendan and his monks finally find the country they have been looking for. Hidden in the centre of a dense cloud of darkness, they arrive at an island full of light. In this Paradise they discover a land of fruiting trees, endless day-time, and a swiftly flowing river they are unable to cross. There they are met by a young man with a dazzling countenance (an angel?) who knows all the monks by name and who tells them the reason they could not find the island before is because Christ had hidden it from them in order that they might see the wonderful works of God displayed in the ocean.

Detail from Dante’s Earthly Paradise from the 15th century BL Yates Thompson MS 36 f. 116v.

The monks are allowed to marvel at the island but not allowed to stay, being instructed to sail back home to Ireland with their boat loaded with heavenly fruit and precious stones as proof of their sojourn in Paradise. For most devout medieval Christians, the joys of life on earth had nothing to offer in comparison to the joys of heaven and so the idea Paradise could be visited as an earthly outpost of heaven must have seemed even more tantalising than a Coconut and Stem Ginger biscuit…

Whether he found his way to a real Earthly Paradise or not, I imagine Brendan himself would have agreed with St. Augustine that in the end we come to God by love and not by navigation. “You will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart“, God tells the people of Israel (and all of us) in the prophet Jeremiah. If the temptation is to think of our forever home as a heavenly place, the Bible tells us it is, most of all, a heavenly person. And a heavenly person who is with us wherever we go and who we can reach for at any moment: “If I rise on the wings of the dawn, if I settle on the far side of the sea, even there your hand will guide me, your right hand will hold me fast.” David writes in Psalm 139, an excellent sentence for all voyagers and this adventurous biscuit.

Further Delectation

Planning a voyage to an Earthly Paradise this summer? You might want to stock up on some of Botham’s biscuits.

A free English translation of the Navigatio sancti Brendani abbatis if you fancy a read of it. (Its influence can be seen on much later fictional travelogues, such as C.S. Lewis’s Voyage of the Dawn Treader.)

Finally, this is a lovely little blog from the BL on the medieval locations of an Earthly Paradise for those who can’t afford to travel (or are simply interested in the history of all this!)

If you would like to see more entries more regularly and help keep this bestiary free of ads, you are welcome to contribute to the Biscuit Jar.

Dark Chocolate Gingers

In last Sunday’s evening service we were invited to try a short session of contemplative prayer with the help of an icon or a passage from the bible. Imagine my delight when the gentleman next to me rose to his feet and announced that he was moving to the back of the church to meditate on the biscuits. Which just goes to show you never know when a stranger might appear with a word from the Lord…

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Message (and messenger) by catapult. From the BNF MS of Jean de Wavrin’s histories of Britain.

For a while now I’ve been eager to meditate on Dark Chocolate Gingers. Border Biscuits make some particularly fine ones and as they’d previously always been available in my local supermarket it never crossed my mind that they might disappear from the shelves without notice. Having hunted and failed to find them elsewhere, I was all set to do a post on the Dark Chocolate Ginger Night of the Soul when my friend Cath found me a new brand from Sainsbury’s. Honesty compels me to admit these are Not-Quite-As-Dark Chocolate Gingers but the lower cocoa content is more than made up for by the thickness of the chocolate coating, not to mention its jaunty stripes.

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Sainsbury’s Dark Chocolate Gingers on a Roof Terrace in Peckham.

I’ve known biscuit lovers who dislike ginger, but I’ve always loved its pep and fieriness. The hospitable warmth of gingerbread is one of the great joys of Christmas and the McVities ginger nut (less fashionable than it used to be) gloriously dunkable with tea. Another brilliant ginger creation, Marks and Spencer’s stem ginger cookies, belongs in my mind to that stratosphere of gustatory pleasures in which you might enjoy a choice marmalade after a leisurely breakfast. The Dark Chocolate Ginger strikes me as more of a late morning luxury or happy after-thought to an evening meal. Ginger could be expensive in the Middle Ages and while not as sought after as pepper, it was valued for its medicinal benefits more than its culinary ones. A strong dose of ginger can be a shock to the system, but as a winter spice it can also be deliciously warming, healing and cleansing – like truth itself when it’s let loose on the world.

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August Bank Holiday cornfield near Tudeley-cum-Capel.

If ginger stands for truth, then chocolate and ginger together make a good advert for speaking the truth in love. Our ability to receive truth increases when we sense the truth-teller is not out to score points for themselves or condemnation for others but genuinely trying to find a path towards collective healing and freedom. This can be a hard path to follow when you’re feeling hurt and angry (or timid or selfish) but anything less is neither truthful nor loving in the long run.

Further Delectation

Spice up your life (or spruce up your knowledge) with this short survey of winter spices in the Middle Ages.

Enjoy George Herbert’s beautiful meditation on The Way, the Truth and the Life, the equally wonderful music of Vaughan Williams, and a singing monk lost in Grand Central Station:

If you would like to see more entries more regularly and help keep this bestiary free of ads, you are welcome to contribute to the Biscuit Jar